Toscaig Ferry, Kyle of Lochalsh 1976

Long before the dramatic Bealach na Bà mountain pass became a celebrated driving route, the small coastal settlement of Toscaig, near Applecross on Scotland’s west coast, was home to one of the region’s most essential—and now forgotten—transport links: the Toscaig ferry. Operating across the Inner Sound to Kyle of Lochalsh, the ferry played a crucial role in connecting the remote Applecross Peninsula to the rest of the Highlands.

Remote by Nature

The Applecross Peninsula, part of Wester Ross, has long been considered one of the most isolated parts of mainland Scotland. Until the mid-20th century, travel overland was severely limited, especially in winter, when the steep and winding Bealach na Bà road was often impassable. With no reliable roads linking Applecross to nearby towns, the sea was the community’s lifeline.

The ferry from Toscaig, a small harbour at the southern tip of the peninsula, was the only practical means of reaching the railhead at Kyle of Lochalsh. From there, travellers and goods could continue east to Inverness or south to the central belt of Scotland.

The Crossing

The Toscaig ferry covered a route of roughly 10 miles across the Inner Sound, typically taking around 45 minutes to an hour, depending on weather and sea conditions. Vessels were often small motor launches or converted fishing boats—functional and sturdy rather than luxurious. The service carried a mix of passengers, livestock, groceries, mail, and essential supplies.

The slipways at both Toscaig and Kyle of Lochalsh were rudimentary but effective. There were no roll-on/roll-off facilities—everything was loaded and unloaded by hand. Despite its simplicity, the ferry offered a dependable service that many in Applecross relied upon for everyday needs.

The End of an Era

By the late 1950s and 1960s, gradual improvements to the Applecross coast road and upgrades to the Bealach na Bà meant road access was finally becoming viable year-round. This reduced the community’s dependence on the ferry. With road links improving and vehicle ownership becoming more widespread, the ferry service saw a steady decline.

The Toscaig–Kyle of Lochalsh ferry was withdrawn in 1978, ending a chapter in the peninsula’s history. Although little remains to mark its existence today, the old slipway at Toscaig can still be found—overgrown but intact—a silent witness to a time when the sea was the main road out of Applecross.